The Complete Guide to Trekking Poles for NZ Tramping

Trekking poles are one of the most underrated pieces of tramping gear. Whether you are tackling your first Great Walk or heading into the backcountry for a week, the right pair of poles can reduce fatigue, protect your knees, and keep you stable on the rough, root-tangled, river-crossed terrain New Zealand is famous for.

This guide covers everything you need to know about choosing trekking poles for NZ conditions. From finding the correct length for your height and terrain to picking between carbon fibre and aluminium, telescopic and foldable, we break it all down so you can make the right call before hitting the track.

Why Trekking Poles Matter on NZ Tracks

New Zealand tramping is not flat walking. Even "easy" Great Walks involve muddy bush sections, exposed tree roots, stream crossings, and enough elevation change to punish unprepared knees. Trekking poles address every one of these challenges.

Research published in the Journal of Biomechanics found that using trekking poles during downhill walking reduced knee joint forces, ground reaction forces, and tibiofemoral compressive and shear forces by 12-25%. That reduction matters enormously when you are descending 1,000 metres on the Kepler Track carrying a loaded pack. Over a full day of tramping, poles redistribute load from your legs to your upper body, reducing fatigue in your quadriceps and calves while engaging your arms, shoulders, and core.

Beyond joint protection, poles improve balance and stability. They give you two extra contact points on uneven ground, which makes a measurable difference on slippery tree roots, loose volcanic scree, and the kind of boggy sections you find on tracks like the Heaphy or Waikaremoana. For river crossings, poles are practically essential. Planting a pole upstream while you step gives you a solid anchor against the current, and the NZ Mountain Safety Council specifically recommends poles for this purpose.

Poles also improve your posture. Without them, trampers tend to lean forward on steep climbs, which loads up the lower back. Poles encourage an upright stance that keeps your breathing open and your spine aligned, even under a heavy pack.

How to Find Your Correct Pole Length

Getting the right pole length is the single most important factor in pole performance. Poles set too short force you to hunch. Poles too long make you overreach and waste energy. The goal is a 90-degree bend at your elbow when the pole tip touches the ground beside your foot.

The standard formula is straightforward: multiply your height in centimetres by 0.68. A 170cm tramper needs roughly 115cm poles. A 180cm tramper needs around 122cm. This gives you the correct length for flat terrain and serves as your starting point for terrain-based adjustments.

Use the calculator below to find your recommended length based on your height and the type of terrain you will be tramping.

For a full-page version of this tool with extended terrain guidance, visit our dedicated Trekking Pole Length Calculator.

Adjusting Pole Length for Different Terrain

The calculator gives you a base length, but NZ tracks rarely stay flat for long. Adjusting pole length for terrain changes is what separates comfortable tramping from a slog.

Uphill climbs: Shorten your poles by 5-10cm. Shorter poles let you plant them higher on steep grades without overreaching, maintaining that 90-degree elbow angle while pushing upward. This transfers more power through your arms and helps you maintain balance on loose volcanic scree or muddy bush tracks. Think of the Devil's Staircase on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing or the climb to Luxmore Hut on the Kepler Track.

Steep descents: Lengthen your poles by 5-10cm. Longer poles plant farther ahead on downhill sections, reducing your forward lean and absorbing impact before it reaches your knees. On a sustained descent like McKinnon Pass on the Milford Track or coming down from Harris Saddle on the Routeburn, the difference is significant over hundreds of metres of elevation loss.

Mixed terrain: Keep your poles at base length and adjust as conditions change. Great Walks like the Routeburn and Kepler alternate between climbs, ridge walking, and descents throughout the day. Adjustable poles with reliable locking mechanisms let you change length in seconds without breaking stride.

River crossings: Consider lengthening poles slightly for better reach and stability. Plant the pole upstream and use it as an anchor while you step. Two poles are far better than one for crossings, as they give you a stable tripod stance against the current.

Carbon Fibre vs Aluminium Poles

This is the first major decision when buying trekking poles, and the right answer depends on how and where you tramp.

Carbon fibre poles are lighter, typically weighing 150-250g per pole compared to 250-350g for aluminium. They also absorb vibration better, which reduces hand and arm fatigue over long days. If you are doing multi-day Great Walks or ultralight tramping where every gram counts, carbon is the premium choice. The trade-off is durability. Carbon poles can shatter under sudden lateral force, and if they break in the field, they cannot be repaired. A pole that gets jammed between rocks while you stumble is more likely to snap than bend.

Aluminium poles are heavier but significantly tougher. If an aluminium pole takes a hard knock, it bends rather than breaking. You can often bend it back into usable shape and carry on. For rough backcountry routes with rock, scree, and dense bush, aluminium is the more reliable material. It is also considerably cheaper, making it a practical choice for trampers who are hard on their gear or want solid poles without the premium price tag.

Most NZ trampers will be well served by aluminium unless weight is a top priority. If you tramp exclusively on well-formed Great Walk tracks and want the lightest possible setup, carbon is worth the investment.

Telescopic vs Foldable vs Fixed Length Poles

Pole construction type affects packability, adjustability, weight, and reliability. Here is how each type stacks up for NZ tramping.

Telescopic poles use nested sections that slide and lock at your chosen length. They typically collapse to 55-70cm and offer infinite adjustment within their range (usually 95-135cm). This makes them the most versatile option for varied terrain. Look for lever lock (also called cam lock or flick lock) mechanisms over twist lock systems. Lever locks are faster to adjust on the trail and far less likely to slip under load or seize up when wet and muddy, which is a common reality on NZ tracks.

Foldable poles (also called Z-poles) collapse via an internal tension cord, similar to tent pole construction. They pack down to just 30-40cm, fitting inside your pack or in a side pocket. Deployment is fast. Pull the sections apart and they snap together in seconds. The trade-off is that most foldable poles have limited or no length adjustment, so you need to buy the correct size for your height. They are a favourite with ultralight trampers, trail runners, and international visitors flying into NZ for Great Walks, since they fit in checked luggage without exceeding airline length restrictions.

Fixed length poles eliminate adjustment mechanisms entirely, saving weight and removing potential failure points. If you know your exact pole length and primarily tramp flat or gently rolling terrain, fixed poles are the simplest option. However, they cannot adapt to steep NZ terrain, making them a poor choice for alpine routes or any track with significant elevation change.

For most NZ trampers, telescopic poles with lever locks offer the best balance of adjustability, reliability, and value. Foldable poles are a strong alternative if packability and weight are your priorities.

Grip Materials and Wrist Straps

Grips and straps affect comfort over long hours of tramping, and the right combination prevents blisters, fatigue, and hand cramping.

Cork grips conform to your hand shape over time, wick moisture effectively, and resist slipping when wet. They are the top choice for multi-day tramping in NZ conditions where rain and sweat are constants. Cork also insulates against vibration, reducing hand fatigue on rocky terrain.

Foam (EVA) grips are softer, lighter, and absorb moisture rather than wicking it. They dry quickly and feel comfortable from the first use without a break-in period. Foam works well for day tramping and shorter trips. Many poles feature an extended foam grip section below the main grip, which lets you choke down on the pole for short uphill sections without adjusting length.

Rubber grips are the most durable but also the least comfortable for extended use. They insulate well in cold conditions but trap moisture and can cause blisters over long distances. Rubber grips are common on budget poles.

Wrist straps are more important than most trampers realise. Used correctly, straps transfer weight from your grip to your wrist, reducing hand fatigue and preventing you from dropping poles on exposed terrain or during river crossings. Thread your hand up through the strap from below, then grip the strap and handle together. Your thumb should sit on top of the strap. When walking, the pole swings naturally with minimal grip effort because the strap carries the load.

Pole Tips, Baskets, and Accessories

Carbide tips are standard on quality trekking poles and provide excellent grip on rock, ice, and hard ground. They are essential for NZ's rocky alpine sections and scree slopes. However, the Department of Conservation recommends using rubber tip covers on sensitive or popular tracks, as bare carbide tips can damage trail surfaces. Pack rubber tips and swap them on for well-formed Great Walk tracks, boardwalks, and road walking sections.

Baskets prevent poles from sinking too deep into soft ground. Standard trekking baskets (small, round, about 30-40mm diameter) work well for most NZ conditions. Larger snow baskets are available for winter tramping or soft alpine snow. Most poles come with standard baskets and accept interchangeable sizes.

Shock absorbers are built into some poles and use an internal spring mechanism to dampen impact on each plant. They help reduce wrist and elbow strain, particularly on long descents. The downside is added weight, a slightly spongy feel that some trampers dislike, and another mechanism that can potentially fail. Shock absorbers are a nice-to-have rather than a necessity. Many experienced trampers prefer the direct feel of poles without them.

One Pole or a Pair?

A single pole is fine for easy day walks on flat coastal tracks or gentle bush loops where you want some extra balance without carrying a full pair. One pole gives support on muddy sections and stream crossings while keeping a hand free for photography or snacking on the move.

For anything more serious, a pair is the clear recommendation. Two poles distribute pack weight evenly across both arms, preventing the lopsided strain that single pole use creates over long distances. On steep descents, paired poles let you plant both tips for superior stability on loose scree or wet tree roots. On river crossings, two poles provide a stable tripod or even four-point stance. For multi-day Great Walks, backcountry tramping, and any route with significant elevation change, always use a pair.

Trekking Poles on NZ Great Walks

Great Walks showcase the most dramatic terrain in New Zealand, and each route has its own demands on pole use.

The Routeburn Track is one of the best arguments for adjustable poles. Day one involves a sustained climb to the Harris Saddle area, followed by exposed ridge walking and descents. You will adjust pole length multiple times per day, and the rocky sections above the bushline demand good carbide tip grip.

The Milford Track builds steadily to McKinnon Pass on day three before a long, knee-testing descent to the Quintin Lodge area. Poles earn their weight on the pass descent alone. Given Fiordland's rainfall (some of the highest in the world), expect muddy conditions where baskets and good tip grip matter.

The Kepler Track features a steep climb to Luxmore Hut, exposed alpine ridge walking above the bushline, and a long descent through dense bush. The terrain variation across a single day makes adjustable poles essential.

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is technically a day walk rather than a Great Walk, but it includes the steep Devil's Staircase climb, volcanic scree, and exposed alpine sections. Poles are highly recommended, particularly for the descent from Red Crater which is loose and steep. Shorten for the climb, lengthen for the descent.

The Abel Tasman Coast Track is the flattest Great Walk and the one where poles are least essential. Beach sections, gentle coastal bush, and well-formed track mean you can manage without them. That said, tidal crossings and muddy sections after rain still benefit from pole support.

The Heaphy Track is long (78km over 4-5 days) with relatively gentle grades but includes river crossings, muddy palm forest sections on the West Coast end, and enough distance that cumulative fatigue makes poles worthwhile.

How to Use Trekking Poles Properly

Having the right poles is half the equation. Using them correctly is what unlocks the real benefits.

Rhythm and gait: Plant the opposite pole to your leading foot. Left foot forward, right pole plants. Right foot forward, left pole plants. This mirrors your natural arm swing and creates a balanced, rhythmic stride. It feels awkward for the first few hundred metres, but becomes automatic quickly.

Uphill technique: Shorten your poles and plant them beside or slightly behind your body. Push down and back to propel yourself forward. Keep your arms close to your body and avoid planting poles too far ahead, which wastes energy and creates an unstable reach.

Downhill technique: Lengthen your poles and plant them ahead of your body, slightly wider than shoulder width. Let the poles absorb impact before your feet reach the same level. Take shorter steps and keep your weight slightly back. This is where poles deliver their greatest benefit to your knees.

River crossings: Face slightly upstream and plant your poles on the upstream side. Move one point of contact at a time (one pole, then one foot, then the other pole, then the other foot). Keep the poles angled slightly upstream so the current pushes them into the riverbed rather than sweeping them downstream.

Stowing poles: On sections requiring scrambling, hands-on climbing, or dense bush where poles get caught, collapse or fold your poles and secure them to your pack. The Routeburn's Harris Saddle and Milford Track's McKinnon Pass both have sections where stowing poles briefly is sensible.

Pole Length Reference by Height

Lengths rounded to nearest centimetre using the height x 0.68 formula with +/-5cm terrain adjustments. Use the Trekking Pole Length Calculator for a precise result based on your exact height.

Caring for Your Trekking Poles

A few minutes of maintenance after each trip keeps your poles reliable for years. After tramping, separate all sections and wipe them down with a damp cloth. Let everything dry fully before storing, especially the inside of telescopic sections where moisture can cause corrosion or seizing. Check locking mechanisms for grit and debris, which is common after muddy NZ tracks. A quick rinse under the tap and a wipe is usually all that is needed.

Inspect pole tips regularly. Carbide tips gradually wear down with use and can be replaced on most quality poles. Replace tips when they become smooth and no longer grip rock effectively. Check baskets for cracks and replace if they are damaged, as a broken basket will let your pole sink into soft ground when you least expect it.

For telescopic poles, occasionally apply a light silicone spray to the inner sections to keep them sliding smoothly. Avoid oil-based lubricants, which attract dirt. For lever lock mechanisms, check the tension adjustment screw periodically. If the lever feels loose or the section slips under load, tighten the adjustment until the lock holds firm.

Store poles collapsed and in a dry place out of direct sunlight. UV exposure degrades both carbon fibre and the plastic components on aluminium poles over time.

Choosing the Right Poles for Your Needs

With all the variables covered, here is a quick summary to help narrow your choice. For multi-day Great Walks with varied terrain, adjustable telescopic poles with lever locks, cork or foam grips, and carbide tips are the most versatile setup. For ultralight tramping or international travel, foldable carbon poles offer the best packability and weight savings. For rough backcountry trips with rock, scree, and dense bush, aluminium telescopic poles are the toughest and most repairable option. For budget-conscious trampers getting started, aluminium telescopic poles deliver solid performance at the lowest price point.

Whatever you choose, size your poles correctly using the calculator above, learn proper technique, and carry rubber tip covers for sensitive tracks. Your knees will thank you on every descent.

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